Reviewed by : Stephanie Lim
Located at the culinary haven of the Suntec City Fountain Terrace, one cannot help but have certain expectations of the cuisine served at the House of Sundanese Food. The crowd on a weekday afternoon is testimony to its popularity. Prices here are comparatively low, perfect for the office crowd looking for a scrumptious, yet affordable meal.
It is evident that effort was put into the décor of the restaurant. Despite a non-ostentious entrance, the interior was well-adorned with Indonesian artifacts like paintings, wayang kulits (shadow puppets) and sets of angklungs (Sundanese musical instruments). The dining area was well-lit with lamps which blended seamlessly with the yellow and gold theme exuding a certain charm. The use of dark timber in the well-crafted roofing provided diners with a casual Balinese feel in a local setting.
The cuisine here was as authentic as the décor. Diners were given a choice between the normal white rice and fragrant yellow ginger rice, both served in rattan baskets. The server went on their rounds with baskets of Indonesian-styled dry mee siam, which was not spicy as imagined and thus, suitable for young diners as well.
The Sedap Ikan Bakar Seabass ($28.80), which meant Delicious Grilled Seabass, was a house specialty. Specially selected for its size, the unique Sundanese basting process kept the fish from dehydrating whilst at the same time, added a sweet tinge and slightly charred aroma as flavour. A must-try item, although the small serving did not seem to justify the cost. A hot-selling favourite would be the Kangkong Cha ($5.00), water convolvulus stir-fried with bean paste, touted as the “perfect complement to the Ikan Bakar”. It takes a skilful chef to deliver such a dish with much finesse, to retain the natural crunch and texture of the vegetable. Notably, this dish could have been more flavourful, but this was easily countered with the very potent sambal belachan provided. Another Indonesian must-have was the Tauhu Telur ($5.80), which was basically beancurd and egg, skillfully fried to obtain a fluffy texture and drenched in thick peanut sauce. Like most of their dishes, the flavours blended effortlessly and the contrasting textures of the sauce and beancurd complemented one another, resulting in comfort food at its best. For chicken curry with a Sundanese twist, be sure to order the Ayam Bumbu Rujak ($4.90 for a quarter chicken). The gravy was smooth and delectable, reminiscent of normal curry but with a lemongrass twist. Requesting for the chicken thigh will cost an additional dollar but it was well worth the money as you get a more tender and juicy cut of the chicken. Wash it all down with some of their signature drinks, the Air Jeruk Nipis and Lemon & Barley Mix. The latter is subtly sweet with a slight tinge of citrus, an ideal drink to neutralize the array of diverse flavours throughout the course of the meal.
Some of the staff were dressed casually in t-shirt and jeans, while others were decked in batik shirts and Indonesian-inspired attire, a display of mismatched attire. They seemed to get a little flustered with the lunchtime crowd but their prompt service and attentiveness, with the sambal belachan and dry mee siam, was still praiseworthy.
Even with the slightly pricey Ikan Bakar, a meal at the House of Sundanese Food is an inexpensive culinary adventure into the Sundanese culture of Western Java . Perfect for the casual business lunch or weekend gathering, the restaurant is definitely worth a visit as a safe initiation to the robust flavours and rich spices of South-East Asian cuisine.
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