Reviewed by : Stephanie Lim
If you have been looking for a real taste of Russia , then Nadezhda, pronounced nay-dee-edge-dah , is just the place for you. Located in the outskirts of Kampong Glam, the restaurant which translates as “hope”, serves up warm hospitality and healthy Russian favourites in a cosy, homely setting.
While the first level is done up in a simpler fashion, reminiscent of an old-styled cafeteria lined with a bar counter, the second level feels more comfortable with carpeted floors and framed cross-stitch of borsch soup ingredients, hung proudly on the walls. A sense of familiarity engulfs patrons and the entire experience will feel like you are dining in the home of a close friend.
Authenticity often goes hand in hand with an acquired taste, but surprisingly, most of the dishes sit quite well with locals. A good way to sample their unique cuisine is with a buffet, available for a party of guests upon advance request. Another way will be the very affordably-priced set lunches ($22/$15) consisting of a main course, a drink, soup and/or dessert.
As cliché as it might seem, it is imperative to start off with Borsch soup ($6.90), probably the best-known among Russian dishes. Unlike the common tomato-based versions found in most establishments, it is a clear broth with sour cream, coloured lightly by the use of red beetroot. With small chunks of tender beef and shredded vegetables, the soup is subtly sweet and savoury at the same time. Warm potato pancakes are also available in the form of the Draniki ($5.50), served with a generous dollop of sour cream.
Eager to remedy the misconception about stroganoff in the local context , the Beef Stroganoff ($13) comes highly recommended. Even though the thin slices of beef fillet in a stew are a tad on the dry side, it is served over a generous portion of buckwheat, which tastes like unpolished rice and is, reputably, a good source of magnesium. Another popular item is the Otbivnaya ($13), featuring two pieces of tender pork chop marinated with herbs and a serving of creamy mashed potato. Ask for some of their home-made mustard but be sure to use it in moderation.
The mains are served with your choice of salads, including the Vinaigrette ($6, when ordered singly) and Kapusta Domashnaya ($4.60, when ordered singly). The diced beetroot in the former is gently sweet and well-paired with the sourish tinge of pickled cabbage and cucumbers. The latter on the other hand is sour and highly recommended with some of their vodka, like the Stolichnaya ($7 per shot). The Russian way is to drink it chilled and unmixed, all in a single shot, but have a pickle immediately after as it soothes the throat.
Assimilate into Russian culture with drinks like the Kvas ($3) and the Tea Grib ($3). The kvas is actually made of fermented bread and is reminiscent of beer, but with a sparkling touch. The latter translates directly as “mushroom tea” with reference to the way the beverage is made. Sweetened tea is poured into a large glass jar of a kombucha colony (yeast cultures), often inaccurately referred to as a mushroom, and then extracted. What results is a refreshing lemony flavour, perfect for Russian summers. Do give their pancake desserts a try. Their Blinchiki Apple ($6) is a good choice with shredded green apple wrapped in a light paper-thin pancake.
Even though the waiter was not Russian, there was still some communication difficulty. However, the owner proved to be a delightful hostess, armed with nuggets of information about her food and little tidbits of laughs about both life in Russia and in Singapore .
Important attributes of Nadezhda are the affordability of the food and its strict adherence to the original tastes of Russia , guaranteed by owner Evgenia Polesnaya and her native Russian chefs. Russians in Singapore longing for home-made pickles, dumplings or meats, can also order these for their own enjoyment at home, exemplifying the versatility of the restaurant. While the tastes do not conform to the local preferences, their devotion to authenticity is truly commendable, justifying at least a visit from true foodies.
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