by: Emma Kwee
Warung Lela is one of those places that gained its reputation purely through mouth to mouth advertisement. Started out by Ibu Lela as a simple noodle joint catering to the neigbourhood, it soon stirred some tongues for its authentic family recipes such as Mie and Sop buntut (oxtails soup) and the nice views of the Dago hills that complement the taste experience.
Warung Lela has a setting that makes you want to move in instead of only grabbing a bowl of noodles. The homely feel, with a hodgepodge of antique and not so antique furniture, paintings, and plants, are no coincidence. The family owned establishment is also their home in reality. So the dining area that allows seating for approximately 30 guests, is at the same time the living room. The best seats are on the outside terrace, where a nice breeze and singing birds accompany the tranquil views of the green hills of Dago and the blue mountains in the distance.
Ibu Lela was the first to start a warung in this area and soon others followed, yet the trendsetter remains one of the most popular places, as proves the bustling activity on a weekday afternoon: tables are filled, people slurp and the staff runs around efficiently to deliver one steaming hot bowl of noodles after the other.
The popularity of Warung Lela is in the first place caused by its selection of noodles, that come in different varieties such as yamien , kwetiau and bihun , the most popular one being Yamien manis baso (Rp.8000), a slightly sweet fried mie with chicken strips and a small bowl of clear stock with some meatballs. Very tasty indeed, whereas mie in this country is not exactly a rare thing, this bowl stands out from the greasy, overcooked, bland majority of them. Another favorite and something worth trying is the Sop buntut (Rp.18,000), oxtails soup with vegetables. Westerners, not used to the idea of devouring a cows tail head first, might be surprised at the tenderness of the meat. This is all washed away with a refreshing Es kelapa muda jeruk (Rp.6000) a cold glass of real orange juice and strips of fresh coconut. And as a small desert we couldn't say no to the Sarikaya (Rp.1500) tiny cups of jelly with pandan or chocolate flavour. Size wise portions are not that big, one bowl would be filling enough for lunch but for dinner you might take the opportunity to take two.
The staff of Warung Lela is an enthusiastic bunch of youngsters delivering the food dressed casually in jeans and apron. The meals are served at lightning speed, which benefits the taste. Popularity of this spot comes as no surprise. The recent extension of the establishment at the front was a necessity. The owners daughter says not without pride: ‘Sometimes moms come here first thing in the morning after they dropped off their kids at the nearby school. We officially open at 9 but they'll be here at 8.30 craving for a bowl of mie.'
This is definitely one of the most fun places to hang out and enjoy a bowl of noodles. A homely atmosphere coupled with serene views of the mountains makes you want to come back as soon as you leave. As the owners' daughter cheerfully says: The good thing about noodles is you can enjoy them at any time of day', so feel free to drop by for breakfast lunch or dinner and become part of the Lela family.
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